Ocean Waves and Kindred Geophysical Phenomena

Preface; Bibliography; Part I. The Size and Speed of Ocean Waves in Relation to the Velocity of Wind: 1. Measurements from a ship hove-to during a storm; 2. Observations at sea on the effect of squalls upon waves; 3. Observations of the period of breakers indicating the limiting speeds of waves and the relation to speed of wind; 4. The height of ocean waves measured from ships on their course; 5. On the sea-room required for the full development of waves; 6. The steepness of waves on oceans, inland seas and lakes; 7. The reaction of ocean swell upon the wind; Part II. Waves in Sand and Snow Formed and Propelled by Wind and Current: 8. Waves in sand formed and propelled by wind; 9. Waves in drifting snow; 10. Sub-aqueous sand waves; Part III. Tidal Bores and Other Progressive Waves in Rivers: 11. On the discharge of a progressive from a standing wave in the Rapids of Niagara; 12. Roll waves in shallow water flowing in a flat-bottomed channel; 13. On tidal bores which assume the form of a group of short waves; Additional notes Harold Jeffreys; Index.